traditional technique is the largest
craft being practiced today in terms
of volume and number of artisans.
Today all tie-dye is considered one.
Traditionally however each community
had its own designs and Khatries (traditional
dyers) who would make odenies, sarees,
chuneries and other garments for them.
Each Khatri specialized in certain
designs and fibers. Today only a few
of the designs and techniques survive.
The work done for the richer communities
like Jains, Bhatia etc. have survived
while the ones done for communities
which have been impoverished with
time like the Mutvas, Halaiputras,
Bhanusali, Rabaries among others are
no longer being made.
A large capacity of tie-dye artisans
exist who can do average and above
average quality work. However the
capacity is very limited among the
fine quality work artisans. The demand
for higher quality tie-dye is huge
and the Khatries are not able to supply
the same. There is a massive need
for training program for top quality
bandhani so that more and more of
these goods can be created. There
is also the need to recreate the old
tie dyes and display them so that
they can be made and sold by the artisans
before the techniques are completely
lost. The work being done today is
not comparable in quality to the finest
pieces done earlier. Out of the huge
design bank of traditional bandhanies
that was present with the Khatries
only some survive and these too have
been simplified so that they can be
sold commercially for a cheaper price.
Many old complicated dyeing techniques
like Kankar band, Kanda band etc.
Traditionally many tie-dyes were done
in vegetable colors. Today almost
none of the pieces are dyed with vegetable
dyes. A study of this also needs to
be done for posterity and efforts
to revive the technique of vegetable
dye bandhani should take place. Some
efforts by various agencies to teach
vegetable dyeing have resulted in
the Khatries being able to do simple
coloring in natural dyes. However
the complicated dyeing with multiple
colors still needs to be revived.